Glass shower screens

Our lead time varies with current workload. Every quote is valid for 15 days and states the current lead time directly. A standard frameless shower screen is usually designed, manufactured and fitted within 2 weeks; a framed option typically takes about 4 weeks.

A shower screen keeps water contained through open sides, so the shower stays part of the bathroom — lighter feel, fresher air, faster drying. An enclosure does the opposite: sealed on all sides with a door, trapping heat and steam for a warmer shower. Go for a screen if your bathroom is generous enough that the open side won't let water escape. Go for an enclosure if you prefer steamy showers, want privacy from all angles, or your tray is compact enough that a screen would spray out. Screens win on airflow and sight lines; enclosures win on thermal comfort and privacy.

For a walk-in shower screen, 900mm width is the usual safe minimum — but it depends on your setup. Shower head flow rate, angle, position (close or far from the entry), and whether you use a handheld all affect how much water reaches the edge. A strong or angled-toward-the-entry head can overwhelm 900mm; a gentler or well-positioned head can work with less. Take 900mm as a default, not a rule. If space is tighter, options include a bath screen over a bath, a flipper panel that extends the screen when showering, or a fully hinged screen that folds out and tucks back against the wall.

Fitting a screen flush against a vanity or built-in cabinet creates a trapped-water problem — dirt collects where neither side can be cleaned, visible through the glass. Our solution is painted glass: during production, we apply a solid Pantone-matched paint to the outer face of the screen in the shape of the adjacent furniture. The paint conceals the sealant, blocks water ingress, and visually blends the glass into the surface. We use Ultra Clear glass for painted applications, because standard 10mm clear adds a greenish tint that distorts pastel tones.

A doorless screen lets steam escape continuously through the opening, so the experience is cooler and more ventilated than an enclosed cubicle. Many clients prefer this — a fresher shower, faster drying afterwards, and less humidity working on the ceiling or grout. If you prefer long, steamy showers, an enclosure is worth considering instead. A heated towel rail or underfloor heating near the opening softens the temperature difference for those who want screen-style aesthetics with enclosure-level warmth.

We don't offer a trade price, but we provide a slightly better rate for regular clients. We also offer bulk discounts: when you order multiple items to the same address, we can reduce some costs. Your quote will include the bulk discount automatically if you proceed with all items.

Most installs go frameless — minimum visible metal, lower cost (roughly a third of framed at the same size), faster install, works with clear and toughened glass. You need framed when you want laminated glass (mesh, fabric or colour film — the lamination edge can't meet moisture, so frames are mandatory), when you want extra rigidity from a continuous frame instead of a reinforcement bar, when you want a grid-style steel-look design (frameless can't carry grid divisions), or when the frame finish itself is the design statement.

At standard glass height (~2m), a panel wider than 900mm flexes side-to-side under use and wears the bottom seal — so it needs reinforcement at the top edge. Three solutions: a metal bar from the back wall (90°) or fix-side wall (45°), running the glass full-height to the ceiling so the ceiling channel takes the load (no bar), or an L-shape pair where two perpendicular panels reinforce each other. Bars are the default — most adaptable, work with any wall fix. Full-height is the cleanest visual and what clients pick when they don't want a bar. L-shape works when the ceiling isn't reachable (loft slope, soffit, beam) and you still want no bar.